Today's French Lesson

Marche ou crève -- March or die. The slogan of the French Foreign Legion. 

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Friday
27Feb2009

Hiking and Dining: Bardigues 

Yesterday we did a 14-kilometer jaunt around the lovely village of Bardigues. It was a two-part hike with a fabulous lunch in between. The first 7 kilometers began with a steep climb that we all intrepidly conquered. It was smooth sailing from there; the rest of the trail being a relaxing mix of open farmland and inviting wooded canopies. 

Two hours later we arrived for our lunch reservation at Auberge de Bardigues. The restaurant was a striking modern contrast to the traditional settings I've become accustomed to. Walking into the dining room felt like a breath of fresh air. The gorgeous sunny day was all around us, invited in through floor-to-ceiling picture windows that also brought in breathtaking views of the countryside. Our group of five Americans and one very entertaining Scotsman settled into a comfortable corner table and commenced with a round of aperitifs to quench our well-earned thirst. To make it easy and surprising, we decided to go with the four-course table d'hotes lunch, including wine and coffee.  

Accompanying our aperitifs was a simple country platter of dried pork, olives and mussels baked in butter, garlic and parsley. It was absolutely simple and stunning. Next was a beautiful and masterful presentation of tuna tartar. The buttery tuna was punctuated with the unique flavors of bean sprouts and dried pineapple--very interesting on the palate. For entrees, our party was split in half between pork and fish. The tender pork was served with julienned turnips in a savory gravy. The beautifully meaty and flaky cod sat atop a bright green puree of spinach. But it was dessert that really had us talking. Aside from its lovely presentation, the parfait of fresh citrus and vanilla ice cream had a unusually distinct flavor contrast. With our curiosity piqued, we asked our perky waiter who revealed that it was cumin. Our lunch at Auberge de Bardigues was inventive, different and delicious. We all enjoyed it highly, especially the parting milk chocolate treats made to look like beautifully polished stones. The restaurant is famous for them. We all loved them so much that an entire bag was consumed while paying the check. 

Amazingly, we headed out with full stomachs and light heads for the second half of our fun-filled day. The fluid terrain of the second 7-kilometer hike lent itself well to enjoying some noteworthy sites. The first being a grand chateaux that beckoned us with its stately presence and historical authenticity. The chateaux and its grounds looked as if they had been untouched since the Revolution. Further into the hike we ran into a woman on her bike with an adorable Westie in the basket. The visual was so quintessentially French. We circled back into Bardigues tired and thoroughly satisfied. The day was one of great weather, hiking, food and best of all, company. 

 

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